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We encountered this issue again when trying another rental car company in La Paz, so we shifted our plans. Uber operates to a limited extent in La Paz, which works to get around town and to beaches. InDrive, a regional rideshare app, was another great tool. The friendliness of locals was astounding, as we befriended many of our Uber drivers who took us on other trips through the region.

It’s worth noting that while whale season runs during the winter into early spring, these months aren’t ideal for scuba diving. The visibility is limited, and the water is cold. Prime diving season is in October when the waters are clear and comfortably warm.

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Walking down dirt roads to deserted beaches was one of my favorite ways to take in the scenery, admiring open fields, the shadow of cacti dancing in the morning light, and brilliant orange and magenta bougainvillea crawling up dusty-rose adobe walls.

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I swam against the waves while searching for these mighty creatures. The cloudy water made them difficult to spot and suddenly I looked right down and was face-to-face with the wide mouth and immense, spotted body. Floating in the water, I admired the whale shark feeding before it disappeared into the depths of the sea.

The whole area is known for its surfing, though Playa Los Cerritos draws the biggest crowds. La Pastora is a quieter option for surfing just a few miles north of town. However, the waves in Todos Santos can be immensely powerful in winter and the swells should only be attempted by experienced surfers during this season.

And when all else failed? We hitchhiked. I wouldn’t always recommend hitchhiking but there were a few elements that made me comfortable doing so in this situation. I was with friends, the region is known for being quite safe, and hitchhiking is common here – we waited at most a minute for a ride to pick us up.

If you’re sticking to the touristed areas or if you’re heading further south, the risk is significantly smaller.

This way, you can drive from Tijuana all the way down to Cabo, at the tip of Baja California Sur, and back up with no problems. However, even if you drive your website own car, you should still take out Mexican car insurance.

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Baja California is as safe for female travelers – if not safer – than many other destinations in Mexico and Latin America. Still, women need to exercise more caution than men, so even though there is never any excuse for catcalling, harassment, assault, or rape, it’s in our best interest to take additional steps to avoid unwanted attention and inappropriate behavior.